In New Zealand there are what are called 9 Great Walks. These are multi-day treks/hikes/tramps through different National Parks in the country. There are certainly way, way more than 9 different trails, but these 9 trails get special attention (and more foot traffic) because of their special designation. Lots of trails have huts along the way to provide overnight accommodations for the hikers/trampers at truly a minimum charge ($90 for a 6 month pass unlimited use anywhere in the country (what Erik had) or $15 for one trail for one season (what I got for the winter season)), but the huts along the Great Walks tend to just be larger and better maintained.
I told Erik that one of the things I really wanted to do in New Zealand was part of the Grand Traverse. This track is on the list of the 1000 Places to See Before You Die and it's a trail that stretches across two national parks - Mount Aspiring NP and Fiordland NP. I think it's a 6 day track and I knew there was no way to do it all, but Erik took my desire while I was on Milford Sound and figured out a way for us to see a part of it with two half day hikes. And just so you know, this became I think my favorite part of all of New Zealand.
And a quick word on national parks. I just love them. They are more magnificent than I ever realized when I was younger. I remember the surprise I felt when I saw the number and condition of the trails at the Grand Canyon. It was almost pristine and had routes for all abilities. That a country (the Departmemt of Interior's National Park Service in the US and the Dept of Conservation here in NZ) will devote its resources to creating ways for its people and visitors to enjoy these natural outdoor wonders is just such a beautiful thing. It really, really is. I now have a number of ideas of what I might want to do come September, but one of my first ideas from late last year is still lingering, which is to see more of the US's National Parks, especially Yosemite and Yellowstone, while I try to job hunt domestically. Anyone want to come with? :)
But back to Routeburn....The trail was quiet for the most part and that's typical of the winter season. And it was actually in shade (forest) for the far, far majority of the time which made it difficult to maintain a comfortable body temperature with a perspiring body panting up steep inclines that became chilly with the evaporative process every time a layer of clothing was removed. Parts of the trail were very rocky and several "slips" or rockslides had even occurred years ago increasing the chances of sprained ankles while looking for stable footing on the trail. Erik really pushed me the whole way too. Having spent more days than not hiking the last 6 months, this trail was a piece of cake for him :) I was still somehow having a great afternoon, but it wasn't until we reached the hut that I realized just how much I enjoyed "backcountry" New Zealand.
I'm very glad I have pictures to show because I'm not sure I can describe the hut very well. It was about 20 times larger than I expected based on a photo Erik had shown me of a non-Great Walk hut and about 20 times nicer too. I actually thought there would be just a bunch of 2 or 4 person huts that we would have to ourselves in the off season, but instead it felt like a community inn. And I loved that. We arrived around 4:30 in the afternoon and there were only 3 or 4 other people there so far (Kiwis and one young German girl). We came in and looked around and started talking to others. And I can't quite describe what I liked so much about it, but we were all sort of talking quietly - each aware of the darkening sky and taking the hint that it was getting late - and just enjoying the peace there in the mountains. As winter had just begun (May 1?), the electricity and water had been turned off in the hut. There was a winter toilet (read: outhouse) right beside the locked regular season toilet and a rainwater collection cistern right outside the kitchen so it was still fully functional. In the light of dusk we prepared dinner which really had already become a highlight for me every day. Erik can turn simple ingredients (eggs, carrots, onions, pasta, tomato, etc) into more than a dozen different and delicious dishes and I hope some of that ability has now rubbed off on me. This night was no exception cooking in the dark without our flashlight. More hikers trickled into the hut each politely saying hi and then setting about preparing their own dinners. Then with bellies full and dishes washed (read: rinsed) a small group of people settled in front of the small stove fire and just whispered quietly for an hour or so. Then it was bed time... before 8pm! It was such a simple (and early!) night, but I just loved it. Again, I really can't describe why, but we went to our bunk beds navigating in the dark and went to sleep and I was just happy as a clam.
It's funny because I actually didn't get good sleep at all - I'm sure because of the two cups of tea I had at dinner- but I was up early again and got to enjoy the view from the hut's giant balcony. Then it was time for a quick breakfast and time to make our way down the mountain back to Queenstown in time for my bungy jumping!!
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